September 2023, Interstate 15 with Primm, Nevada in the distance

If you live in Southern California and have driven to Las Vegas, then you have seen Primm. The news is out about the demise of Primm and its three casinos. Once upon a time Primm was called State Line. I remember distinctly how excited Fralia and I were to cross State Line in the Summer of ’78. Back then the only casino was Whiskey Pete’s. It opened in 1977. Then Primm Valley Casino opened in 1990 and Buffalo Bill’s opened in 1994 and its big attraction was the roller coaster. Amelia and I rode it in ’98.

Whiskey Pete’s closed in 2024. Buffalo Bill’s was shuttered in 2025. And Primm Valley Casino will be no more in July. I have no idea if they will be torn down or remain standing and covered in graffiti, much like the Rock-a Hoola Waterpark almost half way to Las Vegas on the 15. I still wonder what the hell they were thinking opening that waterpark in literally the middle of nowhere.

It’s always exciting to leave on a trip and always great to be back home. What a paradox. The drive home from Utah is always a tough one because we have to drive through the Inland Empire. Leaving from Hanksville we had a solid 12 hour drive in front of us so we were looking for a spot to break up the drive and spend the night. There’s a little BLM dirt lot far enough behind Whiskey Pete’s to not really hear the freeway. It was eerie driving through and around the closed casino. The gas station is still open, but barely. I went inside the store. It was sad and what few employees that remained couldn’t give a shit about anything. Behind the casino there must’ve been fifty semi-trucks parked all in a row. The truckers were all resting to stay within the limits of the federal Hours of Service (HOS) regulations. Past that is the BLM dirt lot where we stayed.

Our site, we were the only ones. Yes, it was kind of creepy. In the distance you can see the Ivanpah Solar Electric Generating System. You can’t miss it driving on the 15. It’s those tall towers reflecting the sun.

The little dirt lot was for Ivanpah Dry Lake.

Interesting, really

Beyond us, off of the dirt road we could see a converted school bus. In the evening a young red headed girl left the semi-truck area and began walking towards the school bus. She was dressed like most kids, kind of showing off her body. I started fabricating a story that she was a truck stop prostitute. After a few minutes Amelia shut me down.

Our Airstream, the Ivanpah Dry Lake Kiosk, and the black circle is where the coverted school bus was.

Ivanpah Dry lake

Adios Primm

Open range, Utah Scenic Byway 95

Unless you really know Utah, you probably don’t know Hanksville.

The night before we left Grand Junction we were still indecisive about what route to take home. Then we found out Amelia’s friend Jen’s Uncle Randy was in Hanksville. So why not spend two nights in Hanksville! We drove through the little town last year. The landscape was interesting to say the least. And Instagram’s algorithm has been feeding us a stream of Hanksville posts.

It was less than a three hour drive on the I-70, then west of Green River take Utah 24 southwest, past Goblin Valley (a favorite of ours) to Hanksville.

Right when we arrived at Duke’s RV park a huge dust storm and intermittent rain came down. The office was closed so we just went ahead and took the space next to Uncle Randy and checked in later. It was too shitty outside to unhitch and set up. The three of us walked over to Duke’s Slickrock Grill and had lunch. And that was it. It was so bad we all stayed holed up in our trailers the rest of the day.

The next morning it was absolutely gorgeous. What a difference a day makes. Randy was pulling out and heading towards Capitol Reef. We said our goodbyes then took in the sights.

Us with Uncle Randy

Our first sight was Leprechan Canyon. From Hanksville it was a thirty minutes south on Utah Scenic Byway 95.

The path to Leprechan Canyon

Palmer’s penstemon

About a mile in you could tell this was going to be something special.

And special it was, instead of a sand floor we were walking on rock.

The glow

This was a little spooky for me.

Maybe more than a little spooky.

The end of the road. To go further you need climbing gear and skills, no thank you!

Perspective shot

Broadleaf milkweed

The Scenic Byway was so nice we just kept on driving south another half an hour to the Colorado River.

Truly amazing scenery

After a late lunch at the Airstream we drove west on the 24 towards Factory Butte and the Bentonite Hills.

Factory Butte

The wind really picked up again.

Bentonite Hills

Strange land

Amelia looking like a speck.

Hanksville is a little off the beaten path, but definitely worth checking out!

A male Eastern collared lizard, we saw this beauty on a hike in the Little Book Cliffs Wilderness Study Area.

After Moab we made the short drive to Grand Junction to spend more time with the twins and Mike. It was their last week in GJ before heading back to Oak Bluffs, Massachusetts for the summer. It’s always an absolute delight to spend time with them. It’s been fifteen years, almost to the date since we’ve visited Grand Junction. We hit all the famous trails; 18 Road, Kokopelli, and The Ribbon/Lunch Loops and got in two hikes.

We parked Opal at Mike and Kathy’s rental and slept in the house.

18 Road, if I’m not mistaken this is the Prime Cut climb.

Mike and Chris on 18 Road. The wind gusts were easily 40 mph. We experienced a lot of wind this trip.

Hot Tomato Cafe, it was a little bigger and has had a change of ownership since the last time we were here, but I thought the pizza was still outstanding.

Mike doing a little launch at Kokopelli.

The Colorado River, it still amazes me that sixty percent of San Diego’s drinking water comes from this river.

Doubling up! The same day we rode Kokopelli, we did a short hike in the Colorado National Monument to The Devil’s Kitchen.

Mike’s throne

I absolutely love this picture of Kathy, myself, Amelia, and Mike. Chris gets the credit.

The Ribbon is a shuttle ride. We left Mike’s car at the bottom and put five bikes in our truck and drove to the start. While driving up the road it comes in sight. The red circle is The Ribbon.

Fifteen years ago there was no sign.

The start of The Ribbon. As you descend, the view of Grand Junction and the Book Cliffs is spectacular.

Chris and Amelia playing on the rock. I’ve been thinking about this ride since we did it fifteen years ago. It did not disappoint.

A nice perspective shot of the enormity of the slab. Pictured are Chris, Kathy, and Mike.

Warning! This video contains profane language.

Pretty stoked to be here again.

Chris not hesitating on a technical section.

Crazy landscape

Mike and the twins.

Sego lily, I know I just recently put this flower in a post but here it is again since it’s so beautiful.

On Saturday, our last full day with them, Chris flew home to Connecticut in the morning.  The four of us decided after all the riding we’ve done we would take a day off the bikes and go for a hike. A short drive took us to the Little Book Cliffs Wilderness Study Area. Folks do this hike to see the wild horses that roam the area. It’s never a guarantee you’ll see them, but we lucked out and did!

Wild Horses

So cool

Wild Horse video

We are already looking forward to the next time we see Mike and Kathy.

Breakfast at Candlestick camp

Let me tell you about a thrill, and not the good kind.  On the second night, all bundled up in a mummy sleeping bag and in a small tent, I got a massive cramp in my right hamstring. It was wild. When it happens at home I jump out of bed and try to walk it off. There’s was no jumping out of that damn mummy bag. I was thrashing around in crazy pain. It was quite a sight according to Amelia. I’m surprised I didn’t wake up the entire camp.

I can only speak for myself, but the last day had a sense of sadness to me. This wonderful experience was coming to an end. I was riding slower to savor it and take it all in. It was nothing short of a miracle that this group was able to all get together for three days and two nights. All but two of us are retired, but even in retirement people are busy. There was talk about what we’d all do next. The idea of doing The Maze District in Canyonlands came up, but the guides told us there’s a limit of seven people per trip. We’ll see what the next adventure is, but it’s going to be pretty hard to top this one and this wonderful group of people.

Day Three Stats

• 24.19 miles
• 1,869 ft elevation gain
• A tough climb out

And away we go! The first stop, Holeman Slot, was only a couple miles away.

Entrance to Holeman Slot

A lot of happy people on this trip!

This is as far as I went…

Chris and Amelia manuerving the slot.

The lighting is always so cool in slots.

Ken and Amelia with Chris crawling out.

And we’re off again!

Claret cup cactus

Bill is one strong dude.

This is probably our first close up of the Green River.

A happy Kathy. The next few miles we were riding along side the Green River.

On the last day the group was together more often than the previous days.

A happy Bill Golightly.

Then came Hardscrabble, the first of two difficult climbs. Amelia killed it.

After lunch we rode to a little side hike to see an Ancestral Puebloan granery. They used these small stone structures to store corn, beans, squash, and seeds in alcoves. It’s most likely over a thousand years old.

Lunch break at the Labyrinth Camp.

Mr. & Mrs.

Mineral Bottom Road was the climb to the finish. It was a bitch. That’s Amelia and the Rim Tour truck following her.

The following day we took a day off of the bikes. Tony drove Dianni, Amelia, and me to the overlooks in Canyonlands National Park. We had our binoculars. It was amazing to look down on what we just did. We were able to basically see the entire trail and all the stops we made.

It’s easy to see why it’s called the White Rim. The girls taking one last look at what we accomplished. What a great perspective.

Dawn at Gooseberry camp

What I failed to mention on the day one post is there are no crowds! The National Park Service limits the numbers of visitors. You have to have a permit to be on the White Rim Trail (Island in the Sky District). That really adds to the allure. Occasionally we saw some 4x4s, a motorcycle or two, and one group of mostly young singlespeeders bikepacking, but for the most part we had it all to ourselves.

We actually had two guitar players on the trip. Tony was the other one. He borrowed Golightly’s guitar and played a song while Golightly played the harmonica. Then he did a Son Volt song. After that I called out “Blister in the Sun.” And amazingly enough he knew that Violent Femmes song and started jamming it. All the girls went nuts.

On day one our guide Bryan said to me, “I think I’ve seen you on the trail?” I said, “Maybe, how about Navajo Rocks or Rodeo?” We compared dates and it wasn’t those trails. He said he was guiding a private group of e-bikers. I thought nothing of it. Then on day two it hit me. I saw the dude on the Klondike trails. He was with two other e-bikers at the top of one of the trails. I was chatting them up. The three of them seemed like they could take a joke, or at least I thought so. I told them about the bumper stickers I made. IT’S OKAY TO RIDE AN E-BIKE, BUT YOU CAN’T HAVE ANY BEER!  They didn’t think it was that funny. That’s why Bryan remembered me. I am the smart aleck on the trail!

Day Two Stats

• 27.44 miles
• 1967 ft elevation gain
• More smiles than miles!

Myself, Tony, Dianni, and Amelia

Can you see the Keyhole?

Golightly peeking over the edge

Chris and the never ending view.

Mare soaking it all in

The trudge up Murhpy Hogback.

Like a lizard

Tony waiting for the call that lunch is ready.

Side story: We’ve seen a lot of camp hosts in my day but none of them compare to Sandy at the Horsethief campground. Our campsite was right across from hers. She greeted us and chatted us up. When people were arriving to look for a spot in this first come first served campground she was in the road giving them info. If the campground was full she tried to help them out with alternative ideas. You did not drive the wrong way on the one way road on her watch. And if you were speeding there would be hell to pay. All of this is great, but put us in a predicament. The kiosk where you check in and pay clearly states the campsite must be occupied. Ours was going to be unoccupied for two nights. After much talking bewteen the three parties that were camping we all decided to go with the approach of asking for forgiveness instead of permission. Here we were on our second day, we had just finished the climb up Murphy’s Hogback and three hikers are walking by. The first three hikers we had seen all trip. Wouldn’t you know it, one was Sandy!! Amelia recognized her and Sandy said, “Busted!” Then we all laughed our asses off. She’s the coolest of the cool.

Sandy is the best!

The lunch sites and campsites had pit toilets with artwork from the local high school students.

The Green River

Mare leaping over the Black Crack with Bill and Chris watching. It’s not much of a leap but still scary as hell. You do not want to fall into the crack. It is a 65-foot-deep fissure.

Dianni and Drew talking up a storm. Bill and Mare taking a picture of Candlestick glowing. Candlestick camp is where we spent the second night.

What a magnificent sunset!

The White Rim Singers

I imagine this happens to most people that have an active lifestyle…last summer when I turned sixty five it was a wake up call of sorts. I started pondering about things I want to do and should do while I could still do them. Who knows how many more truly active years I have left. It could be five, ten, or if I’m really lucky fifteen.

The last two years when we’ve been in Moab we’ve always driven out to either Dead Horse Point State Park and/or Grandview Point in Canyonlands National Park and looked down on the White Rim Trail. From above it is amazing and I always thought to myself it must be really spectacular to be on it. That’s the genesis of this trip.

Last fall I contacted Rim Tours and started a conversation. After much back and forth, and with Amelia’s help when I became frustrated, we finally settled on dates for a three day, two night tour. I’m not a big mingle with strangers guy. I wanted a charter trip with only like minded friends. We put together a list of first round draft choices, sent out an email, and to our surprise everyone quickly responded with firm commitments.

It’s a terrific group of folks, and only Amelia and I knew everyone, well almost everyone. There’s Chris who’s an identical twin of our friend Kathy, we’ve been hearing about her for years and dying to meet her. The other person we didn’t know was Drew, but Patty and Bill from Montana vouched for him. Unfortunately Kathy’s husband Mike was a last minute scratch.

The twelve riders on the trip were Amelia and I, The Noltes (Reno, Nev.), Chris (Connecticut), Kathy ( Grand Junction & Massachusetts, her and Mike are vagabonds), Bill and Drew (Helena, Montana), Ken and Golightly (San Diego), and last but not least Dianni and Tony (Fort Collins, Colorado).

It was a little nippy in the morning on the first day but overall we really lucked out on the weather. Around every bend there was vast jaw dropping scenery that just left us stunned and feeling small in the universe. The other really wonderful thing…no internet. We all had a reprieve from the endless news cycle of the trump era. Kudos to the folks at Rim Tours, especially our guides, Jeff and Bryan. It was a dreamlike perfect tour that will be a life long memory all of us will cherish.

What is the White Rim Trail you ask?

Per the National Park Service, The “White Rim” is officially the White Rim Sandstone, a light-colored rock layer deposited approximately 275 million years ago as wind-blown beach dunes. Because this sandstone is more resistant to erosion than the softer red shale beneath it, it forms a massive, flat “bench” or terrace that rings the Island in the Sky mesa of Canyonlands National Park.

Here’s the crazy thing: the White Rim Road was constructed by the Atomic Energry Commission in the 1950s to provide access for uranium miners during the cold war. It’s a 100 mile unpaved loop, of which we did 82 miles.

Day One Stats

• 28.9 miles   
• 1,737 ft elevation gain   
• More fun than imaginable

Friends meeting friends at the Rim Tours office. The day had finally arrived. The air was filled with excitement.

From their office it was nearly an hour drive to the start. By the time we got there we were all chomping at the bit to get going, but first there was a safety talk and a review of the map showing our route.

Part of the safety talk was a demonstration of the correct way to look over the edge of a cliff: Crawl towards the edge, lay down on your belly and look over as Dianni and Amelia are doing. I said no thanks and never got close to the edge!

Team photo

The Shafer Trail, this is what we rode down to start the ride!

Musselman Arch, some folks call it an arch some a bridge.

We all oohed and aahed at it for a while. That’s Ken and Golightly in the foreground.

Here’s a nice team photo perspective shot.

Hoary tansyaster

Young lovers, well maybe not so young anymore, and other’s body parts. Everyone was digging the warmth of the rock while waiting for lunch.

Typical lunch spread

Lunch with a view

A happy Greg Harris

Kathy with Mr. & Mrs. Fancy Pants that own an Airstream wrestling with the tent set up.

The evening light was beautiful. That’s Nolte walking towards the camera and Amelia and Mare walking away.

The little small human specs are Chris and Amelia!

Gooseberry campsite

Golightly brought his guitar and harmonica. He even prepared a song book for everyone with lyrics. It was pretty cool hanging out and singing. Ken and Chris are in the pic.

Stay tuned for day two! I’ve got some great pictures and stories to tell.